48 hours in Dunedin

Sailors, scarfies, design gurus, goldminers…. Plenty of folks have found good reason to rush to Dunedin over the years.

And while the weather here may not always merit writing home about (they don’t call it the Edinburgh of the South for nothing), everything in Dunners is very much in the walkable bracket. So what more excuse do you need to slip on your favourite Swanni and spend 48 hours discovering what this ‘cool as’ little city has to offer.

First up, let’s kick off with Otago Farmers Market, held every Saturday morning at Dunedin Railway Station. The trains may be few and far between nowadays, but this historic and iconic landmark holds over 50 stalls of local fare, everything from veges to gin!

Next, nosebag. There are heaps of great eateries to choose from in the centre, but perhaps pick of the brunch is Side On bakery and café on Moray Place. From delicious savoury dishes to eclectic sweet treats, everything on the menu here is freshly baked on site. The coffee’s not too dusty either.

For something more experimental, skip south to Moiety in the city’s historic warehouse district. Choose between an award-winning snack, or a five-course degustation menu delight (nothing in-between), both artfully created from world-class local produce. Remember to buy a jar of their famous pâté to take away too.

Or if Asian Fusion is more your thing, head back to Vault 21 on The Octagon for a range of slow-cooked sensations and mouthwatering fancy favourites. Paua Wonton, anyone?

Now we’ve filled a corner (or at least a 135° interior angle), it’s time to strike due north for some serious shopping action.

Whatever your tastes, you’re sure to find a store on George Street that suits. From shoes, jewellery, homeware, gifts, gaming and more on the opening straight, to NZ designer boutiques and international labels on the upper stretch. Just be sure to give your best Kiwi nod at the Swanndri store en route.

Things get just as interesting on Princes Street, south of The Octagon. Fill your literary boots at Dead Souls Bookshop, a veritable treasure trove of quality second-hand books with around 20,000 titles to peruse.

Make a detour to Two Squirrels Vintage Emporium, a real gem for carefully curated selections of vintage clothes, vinyl, pottery and other memorabilia. Rockin’.

Then – and here’s an unusual one for visitors – carry on down to the Princes Street Butcher & Kitchen. To be honest, it’s more of a foodie destination than anything else. And if the amazing cuts of meat and bespoke sausages aren’t enough to tempt your hard-earned, try taking home the fresh pasta, sauces and tempting cheeses instead. Incredible stuff.

If all this food is making you feel guilty, maybe it’s time for a brief switch of scenery. A short drive from Dunedin sits historic Port Chalmers. Once the place where new arrivals got off the boat, this tranquil harbourside setting is now a haven for artists, galleries and eateries galore. No wonder the big cruise ships still come here in the warmer months.

Back into town for a drink now, and you really are spoilt for choice. Woof! on Moray Place has a long list of luscious cocktails and craft beers. Grab a seat amongst the plants in the glasshouse if you can.

For a more traditional pub experience, drop in for a pint and a wee nip at Albar, the most subtly Scottish drinking establishment in the southern hemisphere. As well as their own Salted Caramel whisky, there’s a wide array of Emerson’s on tap here. Although admittedly not as many as at the Emerson’s Brewery at 70 Anzac Ave, a must-visit for the craft beer faithful.

Still too mainstream for you? Then take a 20-minute trip up the road to Arc Brewing Co in Blueskin Bay for a satisfying sup of artisan ales in a relaxed family atmos. There’s often a food truck and entertainment too – check for opening times.

Now then, after all that excitement you’ll be needing somewhere to rest your weary head. The new Ebb Dunedin is a beautifully modernist boutique masterpiece that invites you to ‘come as you are, go as you please.’ If you ever want to leave, that is.

A restored Victorian era hideaway, The Fable on Princes Street combines contemporary flair with a tartan nod to its Scottish heritage. Couples particularly like it – nuff said.

For more conventional luxury, try the Distinction Hotel on Liverpool Street. Formerly the Chief Post Office, this impressive building has been transformed into a 4.5 star hotel, complete with posh bar and restaurant.

If you got waylaid back in Port Chalmers, maybe book a room at the Carey’s Bay Hotel, with cosy corners and beautiful ocean views. Or if you really want to immerse yourself in nature, spend the night at Road’s End Cabin, and wake up to the sound of bellbirds, tui, and crashing ocean waves.

And there you have it. Ōtepoti Dunedin, a city packed with hidden gems, grand buildings, spectacular views, and colourful wildlife. Way too much to fit into 48 hours anyway. But as we Swanndri people know, nothing ventured…